Ireland South West

Eyeries to Allihies Hike

2010-06-23T09:14:00.000-07:00

Hiking the Beara Way, from Eyeries to Allihies

Victorian Copper Mines, overlooking Allihies

Cara revolting against her walk

Kathleen & Catherine from Urhan Post Office

Urhan Post Office - great place for tea cakes!

The Blue Loo in Glengarriff

Cara waiting for her Guinness

Nathan Kingerlee

Outdoors Ireland

Singles Adventure Break

2010-06-06T14:00:00.000-07:00

Nationwide were with us very recently, shooting one of our Singles Adventure Weekends. Here's what they got...
Nathan Kingerlee
Outdoors Ireland

Killarney Lakes Kayak Trip

2010-06-06T13:54:00.000-07:00

Sparkling Morning Kayak Trip on the Lakes of Killarney
Click Here To See Our Kayak Trips
Nathan Kingerlee
Outdoors Ireland

Baltimore, West Cork

2010-05-12T08:46:00.000-07:00

Passing the Fastnet Rock

Shipwreck in Baltimore Harbour

Tied up for lunch

Entering the waters of Baltimore Harbour

O Sullivan Beara, The last Gaelic Chieftain

2010-04-24T04:02:00.001-07:00

Play on words presents

O'Sullivan Beara, The last gaelic chieftain

Written & performed by Aidan Dooley

creator of Tom Crean - Antarctic Explorer

‘Theatre by the lake’ Gougane Barra Hotel

28th July - 15th August (tue-sun)

Book: 026 47069 €23/€18 concs

previews 28/29th €15

Email: info@gouganebarrahotel.com

www.gouganebarrahotel.com

World premiere of Aidan Dooley’s new one man show

Aidan Dooley is bringing his new show to Gougane Barra this summer.

His previous work TOM CREAN – ANTARCTIC EXPLORER is a worldwide success. A tale of an Irish hero forgotten for decades.

Aidan awakens again another hero in our midst.

O‘Sullivan Beare, is a great hero of our Gaelic traditions. He represents the pivotal changes of life in Ireland prior to the last major change in our governance. The only Chieftain never to surrender!

We all know and have heard the name now let this new theatre show bring him to life!

Barley Lake

2010-03-30T09:12:00.000-07:00

It was one of those magic winter days in February 2010. The Beara Peninsula hadn’t seen any rain for a couple of weeks, the nights had been cold and the air was crystal clear. I checked my mountain bike, packed some lunch, put on some extra warm layers and off I went.

Leaving Kenmare, following the River Sheen on back roads towards Bonane, was the perfect warm up for the first climb of the day – Caha Pass. The valley opens up like an arena once you have passed Molly Gallivan’s Traditional Farm and your eyes follow the road going up to the tunnel.

Sun shining on my left cheek I kept the wheels spinning steadily towards the Kerry/Cork border. At the top of this climb I waved Kerry “good-bye” and rode into the tunnel, which basically is a dark, wet cave with two exits. A stunning view welcomed me on the Cork side.

After a 1/2 mile I saw Bantry Bay ahead and across the Glens my destination for today - Barley Lake. A fast downhill, some nasty turns, and I was down in the Glens riding a bit faster to get back into the sun. That following climb was now really steep (steep, steep) and a pleasure to ride at the same time – a mountain bike’s playground. The road ended at a small car park and a single track lead me to the lake.

I had my lunch, enjoyed the views and the sun and promised myself…I’ll come back with some friends, on our bikes, in summer, and we’ll have a barbecue!

We offer guided bike trips for all levels, hill walking, rock climbing, canoeing and jeep tours.

Besi
Beara Outdoor Adventures

Bantry House where a family tradition lives on

2010-03-21T15:14:00.000-07:00

The back of the house has an amazing maze and ornate fountain in excellent condition, and wonderful stone steps climbing to the heavens, and so worth the climb, the view from the top is breathtaking, and emcompasses all of Bantry Bay.

This is the front of the house, and what a house it is, Mrs. Shelswell-White welcomed us personally into her family's home, you can feel that the house is a family home and a lot more than a historic building, it is truly worth visiting and we enjoyed it thoroughly.

The Library/Music Room

The interiors are immaculately and lovingly maintained.

See a house where history reigns through to the present family and when you are done visiting, go to Sophie's Coffee shop for really good coffee with scones served with cream and Jam..Yum

Saints & Skelligs

2010-03-13T03:36:00.000-08:00

Long before Strongbow entered Ireland with his Welsh knights; at the invite of traitorous Irish king Dermot MacMurchada; the Irish were plundering the English and Welsh coastline.

Wild and bearded Irish warriors stalked the Irish Sea, landing lightning attacks on unsuspecting settlements and Roman villas. They would loot and plunder what they could, carrying women and children back to Ireland into marriage and slavery. There's stories of highly planned kidnap and ransom missions, with Roman family members being safely reunited with their families once huge ransoms were paid.

Like the Vikings with us many years later, for a time the Irish struck fear deep into the hearts of the English and Welsh, and also the Romans, who at the time were encamped in Britain.

It was a plundering raiding party, looking for slaves and wives, who carried a Roman boy back to Ireland into a cold life of slavery. This fourteen year old Roman boy, Patrickus, grew into Saint Patrick.

This Welsh/Roman man has been adopted by the Irish as one of our patron saints, responsible for converting single handed a land of ruthless pagans into devout Christians, driving snakes from our green and rocky shores and trademarking the shamrock.

The story of Saint Patrick is incredible and tough. He's even believed to have killed someone, possibly a lover, during his lifetime.

In truth Christian missionaries were traveling Ireland's hills, forests and bogs before a newly ordained Patrickus returned to Ireland, having escaped from slavery in a row-boat several years earlier.

Although he wasn't the first missionary to arrive in Ireland; when Patrickus returned as a priest, he had several things in his favour. After six years living here he knew the land, the people, the customs and the language. He was able to move relatively unhindered around the country and possibly because of his Roman noble descent he was treated with some respect. He was also here just at the right time, as the country was ready for the bells of Christianity to toll.

The Irish pagans and druids worshipped several gods, including snakes. Certain groups of druids carried a snake tattoo emblazoned on their upper arm. The druids Patrickus wasn't able to convert (and there were many of them) he drove from Ireland; hence the connection with Patrickus driving all snakes from the country.

One of our furthermost outreaches is a brutally sharp, protrusion of rock off the Kerry coast, which we now call Skellig Michael. Here stood the final outpost of druids and pagan worshippers; wild, rugged men, who called on many gods, threw curses across the country from atop of their rock and performed human sacrifices - or so Christianity viewed them.

To this rock Patrickus travelled, alone and wary, in a little currach, to face his final battle. Here he faced his enemies and found his match. Men capable of performing human sacrifices and surviving a tough, tough life on these rocks stood against the stout heart and strong staff of Patrickus...

For a day or more Patrickus argued and fought with the druids, until at last, weary, bloodied, dehydrated and faltering he drew together his final strength and called upon the archangel Michael to help. What happened next, whether the archangel Michael descended to assist, or whether Patrickus used his final strength, is not known, but he did succeed in driving the last of the Irish pagans off the black rock and out of Ireland and today this rock is known as Skellig Michael - The Rock of Michael.

A monastery was built on Skellig Michael, and hardy monks made a life of worship and survival for themselves from the 6th to the 12th century.

Wherever druids had settled and worshipped, the first Irish priests and monks would often build churches and monasteries in an effort to keep the displaced druids from returning and keep at bay the evil gods and spirits, whom to some extent were still half-believed and feared. This is exactly what happened on Skellig Michael, after being such a powerful pagan site for so long, there was no way Patrickus could leave it to it's own menacing devices.

Interestingly, one of the reasons that Skellig Michael was abandoned in the 12th century was because the Roman Catholic Church feared the monks and holy men living in remote locations were becoming too connected with nature, too in awe of the elements around them, and slipping into some of the pagan ways of life; so larger, more central monasteries were built with a more formal way of holy life and worship.

The tiny village of Ballinskelligs, near Caherciveen, is where the monks from Skellig Michael were moved; Ballinskelligs meaning Homestead of the Rocks.

For a boat trip to Skellig Beag and Skellig Michael I'd highly recommend Seanie Murphy, 066 947 62 14. We at Outdoors Ireland also provide guides for fascinating guided trips to the Skelligs.

Nathan Kingerlee
Outdoors Ireland
Easter Adventure Break in Killarney

The Sheeps Head Way.

2010-03-04T14:30:00.000-08:00

The Sheeps Head
http://www.thesheepsheadway.ie/

The people of 'The Sheeps Head peninsula' in West Cork are still celebrating after they were officially awarded the title of European Destination of Excellence in 2009. We went down there recently on a day trip and we had a thoroughly enjoyable day; a place well worthy of this award.

The Sheeps head peninsula is great for its fantastic walks and cycle routes which are very well laid out and easy access. The villages are spotlessly clean, inviting and fun places to go!

Don't forget your walking boots for this great place!

The Horse-shoe Road.

The Sheeps Head Lighthouse

The Sheep of 'The Sheeps Head'

Coastal Cows near Kilcrohane.

The Happy Cat on the Sheeps Head Way

Cape Clear Island

2010-02-24T04:39:00.000-08:00

Séamus Ó Drisceoil
Cape Clear Walking Talking Weekend May 2010

Spring on Carrauntoohil

2010-02-15T06:20:00.000-08:00

Up The walls in Dingle(An Daingean)

2010-01-25T14:01:00.000-08:00

Sunday was one of those wet winter days when the question arose after breakfast; what will we do today Dad? I said lets head to Dingle(AN Daingean) and ye can try a bit of wall climbing!! It wasn't long before we had passed through Killarney, Milltown, Castlemaine and found ourselves having fun chasing waves on Inch beach which made us good and hungry for toasted sandwiches in The SouthPole Inn in Annauscaul. This pub always facinates me with the many photographs of the the great Antarctic Expeditions and the heroic Tom Crean who survived three such expeditions and still managed to return to his native Annauscaul to marry a lovely local girl called Nell and to buy his own pub, and to go downstairs every morning to 'The South Pole'It was afternoon when we hit Baile na Buaile on the Feohanagh side of Dingle and there was no hesitation about getting in the door of play at height. An excellent facility and really good value for such a class set up, it cost €8 per person and if you wanted to rent the special climbing shoes it was €2 extra. It was really busy,there was a scouts outing, but the queues were fast moving and the people working there were both helpful and efficient. There was something for the novice and challenging climbing walls for the more experienced or more adventurous. There is also an outdoors area but unfortunately it was closed on the day,it looks exciting, there's a high wire course and of course the children were mad to try that too, we will just have to go back another day in the not too distant future......www.playatheight.com a great day out.

Kerryman's Best Friend - Dog or Goat?

2010-01-18T00:57:00.001-08:00

Press Release

Kerryman's Best Friend - Dog or Goat?
Hiking the Blackwater Way with a Goat
18.01.10
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Does the famous Irish welcome still exist? Or is it now just another legend like Saint Patrick and Cu Chulainn? On Monday, 25th January, mountaineer and outdoor enthusiast Nathan Kingerlee will begin hiking the Blackwater Way along with a goat and a dog in order to find out.
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The Blackwater Way is a way-marked trail, stretching from Shrone near Killarney in Kerry, to Clogheen, near Clonmel in Tipperary. Along the way it meanders down the lush Blackwater Valley, through fertile farmland and weaves through the Bogeragh and Knockmealdown Mountains. It’s one of 31 national way-marked trails, such as the Kerry Way and Wicklow Way. Although a popular route for hikers, it has probably never had such an unlikely group as a man, a goat and a dog travel its paths before!
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"I have wanted to hike the Blackwater Way for a long time" says Kingerlee. "The idea of bringing a goat along came to me one evening while in my local bar over a few pints. I had just finished the book ‘Round Ireland With A Fridge’ by Tony Hawks and thought I would love to do something like that but instead of a fridge, a goat would be much better company."
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Kerry native, Nathan Kingerlee, who runs Outdoors Ireland, an adventure company in Killarney, is optimistic about his journey. However, his biggest fear is that the goat may not be able to keep up with a 20km – 30km pace each day over 168km. It is a long trek for any human on his own but how will he cope with the company of a dog and a goat? The goat, Bob, is being donated by Cronin’s Yard at Carrauntoohil and Cara the dog is Kingerlee’s own Springer puppy.
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"As this is outside of tourist season I’m hoping to find enough B&Bs open along the way" says Kingerlee. "The goat will be able to forage for food in the hedgerows and my dog is going through a stage of catching birds, so neither of them will go hungry!"
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"In terms of equipment I’ll be fully prepared and organised, but in terms of the actual hike I’ll be doing I’ve no idea what to expect and that’s what I’m really looking forward to. It will be a chance to rediscover Ireland as a tourist, take each day as it comes and see what unfolds along the way" says Kingerlee.
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"There’s also a slightly more serious aspect, I’ve spent my whole working life in the tourism industry; I want to take a step outside the industry and see if the Irish welcome that we market overseas still does exist in the little towns and pubs along the way and see if the infrastructure and information is in place for a tourist who could step off a bus in Killarney next Spring and decide walk the Blackwater Way."
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Kingerlee will be keeping a daily blog of his journey on his website www.outdoorsireland.com.
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Ends
Note to Editor: For further information or photos please contact Nathan on 086 8604563 or info@outdoorsireland.com.

One of the reasons I'm doing this hike is to raise money for
Kerry Mountain Rescue.
If you would like to make a donation please send a cheque/postal order/bank draft, made payable to Kerry Mountain Rescue, to the following address:
Nathan Kingerlee, Outdoors Ireland
Stookisland, Cromane, Killorglin, Kerry
Also attach your own name and address and one of the Mountain Rescue Team will be in touch to thank you.
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It looks like I'll be talking to Rick O'Shea on 2FM this Monday afternoon, sometime between 12pm and 3pm, about my journey!

Dursey Island

2010-01-16T07:24:00.001-08:00

Just before Christmas, after an eventful day involving boats, trailers and ferries – which I’m still too traumatised to talk about – I spent a night in a lovely B&B in Castletownbere. The B&B was Sea Breeze, the wireless internet access was free and breakfast was delicious!
9am on a sparkling sunny Thursday saw me driving West Cork’s quiet winding country roads right down to Ireland’s most south westerly point – Dursey.

I parked at the cable car and stepped into the crisp refreshing winter air. Ireland’s only cable car has recently been replaced and is now a shiny blue and silver box. The original cable car, which has been in existence for as long as most people can remember, is now used as a hen coop in a near-by farm. The five min journey across Dursey Sound, from the mainland to the easterly tip of Dursey Island, is a couple of hundred metres, suspended on cables high above the Sound.

Today the tide was rushing through the Sound, erupting in boils, crashing against the wet black cliffs. I’ve kayaked through this stretch of water once, escorted by dolphins, but in much calmer conditions than today...

Paddy squints across the water at me, making sure I’ve disembarked, before recalling the cable car, leaving me, Darragh and Cara the dog alone on this rugged windswept piece of land.

We climb steadily uphill, following the rugged spine of Dursey Island across Knockaree, Kilmichael and up to the old crumbling signal tower on Dursey’s highest point; standing at 252 metres above the grey restless ocean.

It’s possible to shelter from the fresh breeze within the signal tower buildings, although there’s no easy way into the tower itself. The tower is thought to date back to the Napoleonic wars and was part of a system of similar towers lining the Irish coastline. I’ve been here on misty, damp days and it’s possible to imagine people waiting and watching within the thick walls as the wind batters the island, the rain pelts upon the walls and darkness drives in through the draughty cracks...

From the signal tower three kilometres of gentle downhill hiking brings us past one of just a few occupied houses and down to where Dursey tapers to meet the Atlantic; although defiant to its environment – like its inhabitants – the tip rears up into a little hill, before plunging vertically into the water.

On the dry, heathery ground we stretch out, surrounded by the sounds of surf, wind and birds, to enjoy some delicious and unusual food bought from Andy at the Truffle Pig in Kenmare.

Just beyond our feet, swirling in breaking waves, protrude Cuckoo Rock and Lea Rock. Further beyond that are The Bull, The Cow and The Calf. The Calf has a lighthouse perched upon it, warning sailors of the treacherous waters within.

After lunch we return along the Beara Way, then the rutted road, along bleak open landscape, with fantastic views over Dursey Harbour and Crow Head. Sparing dwelling houses, mostly abandoned and ruined, speckle the road on either side. The occasional house is still lived in, or used as a holiday home during the summer, and these small, squat buildings look like beautiful but tough homes. About one hundred people lived here once, now only twelve remain...

Closer to the cable car we pass a neglected graveyard and roofless church, called St. Mary’s Abbey. The graveyard shelters the family vault of the O’Sullivan Beara clan. Nearby is a field called ‘Pairc an Air’ meaning 'Massacre Field'. Here a large number of the O’Sullivan family and followers were murdered by British Forces, during the 1500's/1600's.

After a short wait we returned by cable car to the mainland, windblown, hungry and having experienced one of Ireland’s little hidden gems…

To get there take the R572 from Castletown Bere, for Dursey.
It’s about a 35 minute drive and you’ll need to check with your local tourist office regarding cable car timings.

Nathan Kingerlee
Outdoors Ireland

Christmas in Killarney

2009-12-22T00:51:00.000-08:00

What a fantastically festive weekend I’ve just had. Saturday morning found me dressed in a Santa Suit signing up participants for Killarney’s first Santa Fun Run. The atmosphere was fantastic and saw 150 people (including a few Santa suited Dogs) take to the streets along a 10km route that weaved through the National Park and back to Scott Street. The cold was kept at bay with entertainment by musician Liam O’Connor & DJ Botty.

Next onto the Christmas in Killarney festival markets where I got very carried away buying everything from gourmet pies to stained glass stocking fillers. We passed both the Ice Rink and Free Santa’s Grotto which were both in full swing. The festival really has grown to provide something for everyone from Opera performances to Monster Sales and Street Entertainment to Guided climbs of Ireland’s highest peak – It certainly got me in the Christmas Spirit - www.christmasinkillarney.com

Linda Crossan
Randles Hotels

Winter's Weekend in Killorglin

2009-12-14T01:54:00.000-08:00

Scrambling in the MacGillycuddy Reeks, Ireland's Highest Mountains

'Cara The Dog' looking like she wants to go home!

Sunset over the Iveragh Peninsula, looking towards Caherciveen

Kerry Way, Kells to Glenbeigh

2009-11-24T07:32:00.000-08:00

This is a beautiful high-level section of the Kerry Way, skirting along the mountain range of the Iveragh peninsula, overlooking Dingle Bay.

Begin just above the sleepy post office at Kells, on the N70, Ring of Kerry road to Caherciveen. Although initially a little muddy, a decent track leads gently uphill, past several roofless, long abandoned, famine cottages and small fields with the faint remnants of potato beds in them.

After half an hour an old railway viaduct will come into sight, nestled in a thick pine forest. You'll then enter the top edge of this pine forest, crossing several streams. During warm summer days clouds of golden pollen burst into the air as the Atlantic breeze ruffles the pine boughs.

The peaceful, damp forest track eventually deposits you out onto the open hillside and this is often a welcome place to sit and savour the views over Dingle Bay and Inch Beach.

A narrow rocky track then winds along the flank of Drung Hill, once a coaching road, now used mainly by wandering sheep. An ogham stone stands atop of Drung Hill and it's thought by some that this was where local kings were crowned. From this peak they could see all of their kingdom spread before them. A steep detour off the Kerry Way will take you to this summit and is well worth the effort.

The fuchsia lined path meanders downhill slowly and crosses over the busy main road at Mountain Stage. This was once a stage coach stop, where horses were replenished. Now a little, friendly coffee shop stands there. It's a short detour off the Kerry Way to reach the coffee shop, so you'll need to use your OS map.

From here quiet country roads, with the occasional farm house, leads you to a fork in the road. You've the choice of continuing straight, which will lead you through peaceful, shady pine woods into Glenbeigh village, or take a left to enjoy a long descent and spectacular views down to Rossbeigh beach, for a swim in the fresh Atlantic surf!

The hike is approximately 12km and takes five hours. You either need a car at each end, or use Falvey's Taxi to return you to your own car (087 9077648). The Towers Hotel, with it's blazing open fire, is worth calling into for a coffee or hot chocolate. You'll need proper hiking gear, including walking boots, waterproofs and an OS map.

Enjoy!

Nathan Kingerlee - Outdoors Ireland

Lorge Chocolatier in Bonane

2009-11-12T09:11:00.000-08:00

We went on one of those days out today to escape from the office and to wander in the places we do not get to during the busy summer season. With no proper agenda we headed from Gougane(R584) to Glengarriff and over the Caha Pass (N71) in the direction of Kenmare. On our way down into Bonane we found the front door of Lorge Chocolatier open and we had to stop!!

Inside the door, we were greeted by Eva with samples of their creations, i got a homemade chocolate and honey taster. These are created by Benoit Lorge (and his team), award winning chef, who makes high quality chocolates for gourmet shops and high class hotels and restaurants and his own welcoming shop in Bonane, just 5 Km from Kenmare on the Glengarriff road.

Benoit also runs a number of specialist courses for aspiring chocolate makers, teaching them the finer points of preparing, handling and finishing many different types of chocolate. His most popular event is the bi-monthly children’s workshop, although sometimes his greatest critics, all the children go home delighted by what they have experienced with plenty of stories to tell.

Well worth a visit to this Chocolate Heaven with delicious homemade chocolates, loads of great gift ideas and courses on Chocolate making, Yum!!

Lorge Chocolatier, http://www.lorge.ie/

Bonane, 064 6679994

Kenmare,

Co. Kerry

Greetings from Gougane Barra Hotel

2009-10-15T15:49:00.000-07:00

Greetings to Ireland South West from Gougane Barra Hotel where we are really enjoying this fine Autumn weather and making the most of it. We are looking forward to adding bits and pieces to this blog from our side of the mountain and we hope you can enjoy reading about the places we go, the people we see and the things we get up to!!
Slan Tamaill!

Autumnal Colours

2009-10-10T11:00:00.001-07:00

Blue Pool Woods

2009-10-09T00:05:00.000-07:00

As a child I was often taken for rambles through Killarney’s Blue Pool Woods. So in a moment of nostalgia I veered off course from my normal Sunday runs and headed instead for this hidden gem. Located 3 kilometers out the main Muckross Road turn right just after Molly Darcy’s Pub and the wood's entrance is found on the left hand side of this road along with limited parking space.

On entering the woods we were completely cocooned by the rooftop canopy keeping the autumn showers at bay. The circular paths take you across wooden bridges up small inclines, into green glens and through un-managed forestry. Those that can manage to keep quiet enough may even catch glimpses of the local wildlife such as ducks, badgers, kingfishers and deer. The wood gets it name from a small pool off the beaten track that appears to be blue due to the minerals in its waters. The walks in here are short and probably suited as more of a filler to an adventure packed calendar. My day was finished off with a meal in Kayne’s Bistro at the Dromhall Hotel, highly recommend the Early Bird Menu at €25 for 4 courses it’s a steal!

Linda Cussen
Randles Hotels

Discover West Cork

2009-10-06T23:02:00.000-07:00

Cromane Beach & Jack's Pub

2009-10-06T01:21:00.000-07:00

This is the view from my rocky Cromane beach, which stretches for several kilometres, towards the better known Rossbeigh and Inch Beaches. Far off in the distance, on the right, is the tip of the Dingle Peninsula, tapering towards the sunset.

At one end of this beach is one of my favourite Irish pubs, Jack's Bar & Seafood Restaurant. The pub is small, traditional and friendly. Weekend music in the form of one man playing six instruments and a roaring wood fire on the darkening evenings welcomes you inside.

The restaurant is superb and excellent service, with views over Castlemaine Harbour and Dingle Bay. It's the upper and more expensive end of an Irish restaurant, but for special occasions well worth it!

To get there leave Killorglin on the N70, towards Caherciveen. Approx 3km outside Killorglin take a right turn, signposted Cromane.

Keep your eyes open for brent geese, who spend their winters on Cromane beach!

Nathan Kingerlee

Outdoors Ireland

Discover Ireland

2009-10-01T23:57:00.001-07:00

Killarney National Park by Bike

2009-09-30T01:35:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I did a great cycle trip through part of Killarney National Park and Muckross Estate.

We collected bikes from Mary @ O Sullivan's Bike Hire and cycled past St. Mary's Cathedral into Knockreer Estate. Gentle bike tracks led us through open parkland down to the impressive restored ruins of 15th century Ross Castle.

Ross Castle was built by the O Donoghue Ross family and was one of Ireland's last strongholds to fall to Cromwell, eventually being taken from the water by barges and cannon...

The guided tour of Ross Castle is excellent and full of interesting gems, like the murder flap and the communal toilet!

Out on Lough Leane, Prisoner Island stands alone, once used by the infamous O Donoghue Ross to chain his captives, until they perished from exposure and hunger.

From Ross Castle we biked up Ross Road, took a right out past the Gleneagle Hotel and entered into Killarney National Park again shortly afterwards.

Autumn was in the air as we biked under huge oak and chestnut trees, their golden brown leaves beginning to carpet the ground. September is a great time to visit Killarney as the town and area is that little quieter and fabulous colours flourish throughout the National Park.

The quiet trail led us past Muckross Abbey, nestled in the oaks and yews. This is well worth a visit. It was built by pagan chieftain Donal McCarthy Mor in 1448, to guarantee himself a place in heaven; and it was here he was buried.

Within the shadows of the central cloisters stands an ancient yew tree. Legend has it that the abbey was built around this yew tree and when the abbey was razed by Cromwell the yew withstood the blazing fire and stood untouched, to this very day...

Coffee and cake were calling once we had explored the abbey and peaceful graveyard, so we pedaled up the long straight avenue to 18th century Muckross House and bypassing the magnificent roofs and chimneys went straight into Muckross coffee shop.

I'm always surprised at how great the food and cakes are here and it's usually the high point of my day!

Muckross House was built by the English Herbert family and later sold when they became bankrupt due to excessive spending, preparing for Queen Victoria's visit.

There's now an interesting one hour guided tour of the house; a good rainy day option. The magnificent gardens are also worth spending an afternoon strolling through...

A further quick bike detour led us to the base of Torc Waterfall, gushing down the side of Torc Mountain. You can walk easily to the base of the waterfall and steep steps also led upwards where you'll be rewarded with great views over Killarney National Park and the Lakes of Killarney.

The trip was approx 20km and including several stops took us four and a half hours.

Nathan Kingerlee

Outdoors Ireland

Lakes of Killarney

2009-09-28T10:10:00.000-07:00

Beara by Sea Kayak

2009-09-26T11:07:00.000-07:00

After a busy summer I decided to take three days off, pack a fifteen foot sea kayak with food and drink and explore the south west coast. My plans happened to coincide with what was probably the summer’s best weather.

I paddled out from Snave Strand, at the head of Bantry Bay, on a beautiful sunny afternoon. The gentle southerly breeze barely stirring the water. For the entire afternoon I couldn’t wipe the grin from my face as the coastline of the Beara Peninsula unveiled itself, in all of its rocky rugged beauty.

With my heavily laden kayak a little tippy to begin with, until I became accustomed to it, I hugged the coastline. Past Whiddy Island Oil Refinery and Glengarrif Harbour. After a couple of hours paddling my stomach began to let me know it was past lunchtime, so spying a huge black rock protruding from the water I made for it. Leaving my kayak tightly wedged between slippery rocks I scrambled to the summit, passing numerous orderly piles of twigs spread across the flat top, which on closer inspection turned out to be abandoned gannet nests.

Invigorated after a lunch of freshly baked bread, slightly warm goat cheese and tomatoes I hit the water knowing I needed to make it to Bere Island to be assured of a good camping spot that night. This was a long paddle; head down; long deep strokes for three hours, cutting down the middle of Bantry Bay to take the most direct line. Roancarrigmore, a tiny island with a lonely lighthouse perched on it, was my first target. Once I reached this little island I knew Bere Island was only 2km further. Slowly, but eventually, my destination became closer and closer. With the wind increasing, the temperature dropping and the sun setting I was eager to land and set up camp. Hugging the outside of the island I paddled into a calm natural bay called Lonehort Harbour.

Landing my kayak on a white sandy beach, I pitched my Vango tent in dusky twilight, fixed a line between two gorse bushes to dry my kayaking gear and climbed into my tent. After the compulsory ‘I’m still safe’ text messages I set down to the serious job of cooking dinner, making several cups of tea and attempting to open a bottle of red wine with a penknife!

The next morning dawned clear and cool, with the promise of a scorching day to come. After sausages and bacon, cooked on my powerful gas stove, I packed my kayak and while squeezing everything into the two watertight compartments had a revelation! For most of the previous day my kayak had wanted to veer to starboard, especially later in the day when the breeze increased. This had meant that every third stroke was a sweep stroke on the right to correct myself, which was hard work! Anyway my revelation was that my nine litres of drinking water plus three bottles of wine weren’t distributed properly inside the storage compartments, meaning my boat was slightly lopsided, just enough to effect the steering of it through the water…

Paddling along the outside of Bere Island was impressive, with the British gun batteries and bunkers disappearing slowly under an unstoppable tide of nettles and gorse. A Martello Tower from the Napoleonic Wars thrust bluntly into the blue sky, while nearby nestled a Megalithic Burial Site and a romantic looking promontory fort, probably Iron Age or earlier. Bere Island has a rich history and played an important part in World War 1, only being returned to the Irish in 1938.

I left Bere Island, crossing the mouth of Castletown Bere Harbour and passing a solitary fishing trawler which threw up a lazy wash behind it. It was now I began to feel I was sea kayaking for real. Bantry Bay widened before me, miles of open water, the Beara Peninsula on my right, steadily increasing cliffs, headland after headland curving out of sight. While on my left the Sheep’s Head Peninsula slowly tapered to a finish, exposing open sea beyond it.

Deciding to land for lunch is a decision that has to be well planned, as even in the gentle swell I was encountering, it’s no mean feat to land safely. Locate a section of rocky shoreline which doesn’t look too slippery, judge the swell as it surges upwards against the black rocks and rushes back down, sucking and gurgling. When a calming in the incoming swell seems imminent paddle alongside the rocks, timing it with the upward surge of salty water, pull off the neoprene spray deck, slide out of the boat onto the rocks and as the water begins to rush back downwards grab the handle and heave the boat onto the rocks, while all the time keeping the paddle securely in one hand!

Feat successfully completed, I looked around my picnic spot. I had landed in a narrow inlet, which was basically a cleft in the cliffs. There was just enough space to drag my kayak onto the warm boulders which made up the floor. On one side was the water, now appearing docile. On the other three sides were vertical sandstone cliffs which towered overhead and thrust most of this inlet into shade. At the very back of the cleft were the scattered ancient remains of a Massey Ferguson tractor, which I guessed a weary farmer had pushed (or driven) over the edge. I sincerely hoped that with the progress of REPS and environmental awareness there would be no more dumping while I sat there enjoying my lunch.

Technically launching from the shore after lunch should have been easier. A case of sitting into my kayak on the rocks, gripping my paddle tightly and when the right sized surge of water rose upwards seal launch myself into the swell and paddle away. Not the case! I ended up with the bow of my kayak in the water and my stern still perched on the rocks. Because of the sharp narrow shape to the kayak’s hull as the swell rushed downwards I capsized and then slithered the rest of the way into the water upside down. After the initial shock and realisation of how cold the water actually was I Eskimo rolled upright, shook the water out of my ears and vowed to find easier picnic spots in future!

My intended destination that evening was Garnish, a 21km paddle away from lunch. The security of the mainland was left behind as I cut straight towards Crow Head, avoiding the many indented bays and inlets. Crow Head was the furthest into the Atlantic Ocean I strayed. As far as I know it’s the most south westerly point of mainland Ireland. And it felt it… Medium, choppy swell rolled under my kayak from random directions, making me constantly adjust my balance; my face stung from two days of sun and sea salt; gannets on the lookout for mackerel soared and cried overhead, before diving in unison; the water roared and boomed against the cliffs on my right; no one else by sea or land for miles and miles. At one stage I stopped paddling and simply sat still, bobbing in the edge of the Atlantic, savouring the peace and tranquillity.

To save time and for a little more excitement I wanted to paddle through a narrow, tight passage between Crow Head and Crow Island. The passage, or channel, was three hundred metres long and at it’s narrowest I doubt I would have had the width to turn my kayak around. Carefully entering into it was like paddling into darkness, such was the difference between the dazzling sunlight and the gloomy shade. I emerged into a large calm bay with Dursey Island and Dursey Sound in front of me. The difference between one side of the three hundred metre channel and the other side was like stepping from a storm into a swimming pool! The sun was beginning to dip towards the horizon line and thinking about pasta and tomato sauce and warm red wine I put my foot down.

Cutting through the bay towards the Sound, a couple of dolphins suddenly appeared and began accompanying me. Then there were six of them! Streaking through the water in pairs, jumping high into the air alongside me and carving in circles around my kayak. Most spectacular of all was when they dive bombed towards me from deep underwater. From the depths they would race straight upwards aiming directly at my kayak, I could see their pale stomachs as they sped at me, then at what seemed like the very last minute they would veer sharply off and avoid me. The twenty minutes I spent paddling towards Dursey Sound accompanied by six friendly dolphins was the high point of my trip.

I had heard worrying reports from friends about tricky sea conditions in Dursey Sound; however it was calm and gentle as I paddled through it, with soft swell slowly rolling in. Two carefully perched fishermen waved at me from the rocks. The fantastic little cable car (Ireland’s only cable car) was trundling across the Sound, hanging from taut cables high over my head. Judging from the many ruined cottages, crumbling church and overgrown graveyard on the island I would guess that at least a hundred people lived there once. Now only six remain…

I left the Sound, passing Mealaun Point on my left, and veered sharp right, heading towards Garnish Point and safe harbour. Although the swell wasn’t huge it was the largest I had encountered so far. It rolled slowly under my boat, then seemed to accelerate towards the vast overhanging black cliffs, which glistened wetly in the sinking sun. The waves crashed in great echoing booms sending spray high into the air, where it seemed to hang in slow motion. The gentle hillside above the cliffs seemed hazy with mist which, on looking closer, was actually spray blown high into the air.

I couldn’t see the water my boat was moving through! I was paddling through a thick carpet of dirty white foam which covered the water’s surface all around me, absorbing noise. Every time I did a forward stroke my paddle blade and sometimes my hand disappeared into the foam, which had a bit of a surreal feeling to it.

Leaving the foam and echoing booms behind me I circled Garnish Point, surfed through a narrow gap between Garnish Island and a smaller unnamed island and landed on the rocky beach of Long Island. It felt good to stand up and stretch.

That night, propped against a comfortable rock in my trusty sleeping bag, I watched the moon rise, sparkling on the still waters of Allihies Bay; and later slept under the stars beside my driftwood fire.

Dazzling sunshine woke me the next morning and the sounds of local lobster fishermen preparing for their day’s work. After a lazy start I paddled to meet a friend who was joining me at Allihies Beach for my final day’s kayaking.

We circumnavigated Cod’s Head and headed across the wide open expanse of Coulagh Bay, aiming for three small islands huddled off the tip of Kilcatherine Point. As Noel and myself paddled and chatted I heard a snorting noise from my left and glancing over saw, ten or fifteen metres away, the crest of a big, big dark-bluish back rising out of the water. It was a large whale, less than fifteen metres away! Only the crest of its back was breaking the water, and that was big, so I can only guess how big the entire whale was! Ignoring us (or oblivious to us) it sank below the water heading towards Lamb’s Head, on the Iveragh Peninsula. Later in the day we caught one or two more sightings of probably the same whale, far in the distance; cruising the deepening waters of Kenmare Bay, in no hurry to be anywhere.

Having the safety of another person with me gave me the confidence to really explore the caves and strange rock formations eroded into the three small islands; Bridaun, Bridaun Beg and Inishfarnard. We landed in a little narrow inlet on Inishfarnard for lunch and stretched out on warm soft grass to enjoy sandwiches, grapes and chocolate chip cookies, while wondering how the sheep had managed to land on these rugged shores.

Paddling along the coastline of Kilcatherine Point towards Ardgroom I could feel the excitement of the exposed bays, high cliffs and Atlantic swell diminishing behind me and it was with regret that I pulled out my soggy map to navigate to our finish point. The coast was still really interesting, with all kinds of undercut inlets, little arches and strange choppy waves, but we continued past them, all for another day…

We were finishing at Bird Point, but continued a kilometre past it as according to our map there were caves there worth exploring. We weren’t disappointed! Slightly overhanging cliffs beckoned us into a high cathedral-like entrance, which protected two vast caves. Despite the summer temperatures outside, in the caves our breath condensed and hung in the air before us. The slightest noise we made echoed eerily under the high roof, while my Tikka head torch only dimly illuminated our path. The slick damp walls of the caves glistened and eventually the walls and ceiling tapered to a tight finish thirty metres back. Ancient tombs, Viking rendezvous points, smugglers dens, wreckers hideouts; the possible histories seemed to clamour through the empty space...

All I can say is what a trip!
Nathan Kingerlee
Outdoors Ireland

The Alternative Ring of Kerry

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The Ring of Kerry with its classic stops and view points is world renown; however here are some alternative hidden gems along the way.

Visit Kerry Bog Village, on the main road between Killorglin and Glenbeigh. Here you can explore a traditional 1800s replica thatched bog village, complete with Irish wolf hounds and rare Kerry bog ponies; a great family trip.

Entering into Caherciveen take a right down past the old army Barracks, across the river to Cahergal Fort, an impressive Bronze Age stone fort with great views over Valencia Harbour. There is a second even more interesting fort nearby and also the ivy-clad crumbling ruins of 15th century Ballycarbery Castle, once the home of the McCarthy Mor's, now home only to jackdaws...
Back on the main road detour to the sleep village of Portmagee. A must see is the Skellig Experience Centre, dedicated to the history and stories of the 6th century monastic settlement of Skellig Michael. A great wet weather option. It's told by some that this was one of the last pagan sites in Ireland and one of the reasons it was inhabited for 600 years by monks was to drive out the last of the pagans.

Portmagee is named after an infamous pirate, Magee, who was shipwrecked on the coastline, met a local girl and settled down in the village to a life of married contentment and dangerous smuggling. The Bridge Bar serves delicious food and is a great lunch spot. On a fine day you can sit outside at the water's edge, watching the coming and goings of the brightly coloured fishing boats.

From Portmagee follow the narrow road over the top of Coonanaspig Pass and down to Saint Finan's Bay. Here you can swim in the fresh crashing surf at the sandy beach and call into Skellig Chocolate Factory where you'll be rewarded with sensational smells and free samples of delicious chocolates.

Continue to Derrynane Beach. Here long golden beaches, Daniel O Connell’s family home, wetsuit and snorkelling hire, sailing and windsurfing from Derrynane Sea Sports and the ruined abbey on Abbey Island are all calling to be explored. If you're into hiking, best of all, is a hidden mass path and secretive smugglers trail beginning at the pier and twisting along the side of Derrynane Harbour, through thick encroaching rhododrendrons.

Finish your day with a homemade icecream from 'The Green House' in Sneem.

If you've any suggestions of hidden gems on the Ring of Kerry put them into the comments section below.

Singles Adventure Weekends in Kerry

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Win A Free Place!

On Sat 31st Oct & Sun 1st Nov I'm running Outdoors Ireland's first singles adventure weekend!

It will be a weekend full of adventure, suitable for all levels; fun, like-minded people; delicious food; comfortable accommodation and great craic in the evenings in Glenbeigh village. There will be plenty of opportunity to meet like-minded people in a relaxed, fun setting.

The weekend will be based in The Sleepy Camel Hostel.

I'm looking for ideas, from you, as to what activities would make the ideal weekend...

Email me your suggestion; we'll adopt the best suggestion and you'll win a completely free place on the first weekend!

Email: info@outdoorsireland.com

Entries need to be in by Mon 5th Oct.

Entries will be judged by Nathan Kingerlee of Outdoors Ireland and Roisin Finlay, of Outsider Magazine.

Some of the things you'll be judged on are the amount of thought and effort you've put into your idea; what combination of activities you've put together; what rough timings for the weekend you've come up with; and, most importantly, will it work and prove popular?

If you've any questions about the competition leave a comment below. I look forward to reading your entries. Good luck!

General Format:
Arrive Friday Evening
Activities Saturday
Entertainment & Craic Saturday Evening
Activities Sunday

Potential Activities:
Rock Climbing
Abseiling
Hill Walking
Night Hike
Lake Kayaking
White Water Kayaking
Biking
Orienteering
Team Challenge
Yoga
Pilates

Kayaking on the Lakes of Killarney

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Kitty the Piper from Outdoors Ireland on Vimeo.

Team

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Nathan Kingerlee
Nathan runs an outdoor adventure and training company, based in Killarney, Kerry.
Outdoors Ireland specialises in training courses, team building and adventure breaks.
Climb Ireland's highest mountains, explore hidden trails through Kerry's glaciated valleys, rock climb on sandstone cliffs, kayak deep lakes and sparkling rivers or challenge your team with a team building and adventure day!

Linda Crossan
Linda is marketing manager for Randles Hotels in Killarney, Kerry.
Randles Hotels comprises of two luxurious 4 Star Killarney Hotels, The Randles Court and The Dromhall Hotel. Both are ideally located five minutes' walk from the Killarney Town Centre offering guests spacious rooms, leisure club, Zen Day Spa, choice of bars & restaurants and free parking.

Neil & Katy Lucey
Neil and Katy offer family run 3 star accommodation and an award winning restaurant with traditional Irish hospitality. Set in the heart of West Cork in the South West of Ireland, Gougane Barra Hotel sits on the edge of the lake surrounded by forest and beautiful scenery. Gougane Barra is a peaceful, romantic wedding setting with St. Finbar's church on the lake edge and its own National Forest Park. This is a popular place for walking, hiking and cycling holidays, or anyone looking for peaceful relaxation amongst stunning scenery. It is also an ideal location for touring Cork/Kerry.

Contact Us

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Nathan Kingerlee of Outdoors Ireland
Training Courses, Team Building & Adventure Breaks in Killarney, Kerry
info@outdoorsireland.com
+353 (0) 86 860 45 63

Linda Crossan of Randles Hotels
The Randles Court - Luxurious Old World Charm 4 Star Killarney Hotel.
The Dromhall Hotel - Contemporary Family Run 4 Star Killarney Hotel
linda@randleshotels.com
+353 (0) 64 663 93 00

Neil & Katy Lucey of Gougane Barra Hotel
Family run 3 star accommodation, with an award winning restaurant and traditional Irish hospitality
info@gouganebarrahotel.com
+353 (0) 26 470 69